Traditional Japanese architecture is predominantly characterized by wooden structures, which makes it challenging for old buildings to withstand the test of time. Except for temples and shrines, it is incredibly rare to come across buildings predating the Edo period (17th to early 19th century) within towns.
In Japan, it is common for old traditional houses and merchant buildings to be relocated and preserved in parks, while only a small portion of towns retains a traditional townscape similar to Florence or Prague.
In such a context, there is a town in Japan where pre-Edo period districts have been preserved as they were, with 500 out of 1,500 houses being traditional buildings predating the Edo period.
This town showcases the era when samurais with topknots and commoners bustled about.
That town is none other than Imai-cho（今井町） in Kashihara City, Nara Prefecture!
The Enchanting Streets of Imai-cho: Exploring the Townscape
Imai-cho is a town where over 500 traditional buildings line the streets that were formed in the 16th century, within an area of approximately 600 meters east to west and a little over 300 meters north to south.
In order to preserve the historic townscape,it has been designated as Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings (伝統的建造物群保存地区, Dentōteki Kenzōbutsu-gun Hozon-chiku) by the government.
The location of Imaicho is as shown on the map below, and it is situated about a 10-minute walk from the nearest station, Kintetsu Line's Yagi Nishiguchi Station.
The streets and alleys of the town are lined with Edo-era buildings.
The old buildings are still used as residences, and there are also buildings that have been renovated on the inside and are now utilized as cafes and restaurants.
In Imai-cho, there are many traditional Japanese-style houses that have been built from the Edo period to the present day.
However, there is a simple way to distinguish between Edo-period buildings and those built in modern times.
In fact, it is possible to tell them apart by looking at the structure of the second floor.
During the Edo period, a time when samurai ruled, it was considered inappropriate for lower-class commoners to look down on higher-ranking samurai from the second floor. Furthermore, there were strict regulations prohibiting commoners from constructing buildings with three or more stories.
As a result, the buildings of merchant houses along the roads in the Edo period primarily utilized the second floor for storage and the lodging of the house's staff. The windows on the second floor were designed like slits or lattices, preventing people from looking down to the street below.
Exceptionally, inns were allowed to have large windows on their second floors, but even then, they were designed with lattice-like structures to prevent looking down below.
These characteristics of buildings were not limited to Imai-cho alone; they were commonly observed from the northeastern to southwestern regions of Japan. Remembering these features can be helpful when appreciating Japan's old houses.
Though the caste system may seem restrictive, it is interesting to note that it is this very system from the Edo period that contributed to the beautiful sense of unity in the architecture of Japan's old towns.
This is the "Kawai-Ke-Jutaku（河合家住宅:Kawai Family Residence)." It was constructed in the latter half of the 18th century and has been designated as an Important Cultural Property by the government.
It is a business establishment engaged in the brewing and selling of alcohol, and it is still in operation to this day.
Can you see the balls made of cedar leaves hanging at the eaves of the shop?
This is called "Sugidama（杉玉）," which is used to inform customers about the progress of alcohol fermentation. It undergoes a color change from green to brown, indicating the status of the brewing process. It is a common feature found in traditional sake breweries in Japan.
This is the Toyoda-Ke-Jutaku"(豊田家住宅:Toyoda Family Residence)." It was the home of a wealthy merchant who amassed wealth through the lumber and financial businesses.
Built in 1662, it is the second oldest building in Imai-cho and has been designated as an Important Cultural Property by the government.
This is the "Ueda-Ke-Jutaku(上田家住宅:Ueda Family Residence)." Built in 1744, this building has also been designated as an Important Cultural Property by the government.
During the Edo period, Imai-cho was governed by three influential merchant families, with the Ueda family being one of them.In the center of the town, there is a temple called "Shonen-ji (称念寺)," which belongs to the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha sect.
The main hall was built in the early 17th century and has been designated as an Important Cultural Property.
In fact, Imai-cho was formed in the 16th century, with Shonen-ji Temple at its center.
The Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha sect, to which Shonen-ji belongs, gained the privilege of being exempt from temple precinct taxes by the rulers of the 16th century.
As a result, many merchants and craftsmen gathered within the temple grounds of Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha temples, leading to the development of urban areas.
Such towns are called "Jinai-cho" (寺内町:meaning "town inside the temple"), and Imai-cho is one of those towns.
By the way, even the now popular gourmet spot, Osaka, had its roots as a "Jinai-cho" centered around the headquarters of the Jodo Shinshu sect, the Hongan-ji Temple.
There is a water moat about 3 meters wide remaining on the western side of the town. Until the Edo period, the entire Imai-cho was surrounded by a moat of the same size.
In the 16th century, when Imai-cho was formed, Japan was in a tumultuous period known as the Warring States period.
The Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha sect was a new Buddhist force, and at that time, Nara Prefecture was dominated by established Buddhist powers from ancient times. As a result, the Jodo Shinshu Hongwanji-ha sect faced frequent attacks from these established powers, as well as from various warrior factions seeking to exploit the sect's commercial prosperity.
To defend the town, they surrounded the entire area with moats and earthen walls.
In fact, when the formidable warlord Oda Nobunaga, who held great power at the time, engaged in an all-out war with Hongan-ji, Imai-cho sided with Hongan-ji and participated in the conflict.
From 1570 to 1575, they barricaded themselves in the town and fiercely resisted with unwavering determination.
Fierce battles took place on the western side of the town, where the moat remains, and bullets fired during that time have been unearthed.
Photographs of the excavated bullets were displayed in the town's local museum.
In the end, Imai-cho chose to disarm and surrender to Oda Nobunaga in exchange for retaining its traditional autonomy and tax exemption privileges.
From then on, Imai-cho continued to flourish as an autonomous commercial town throughout the Edo period.
This is the "Imanishi-Ke-Jutaku（今西家住宅:Imanishi Family Residence）," which is a representative building of Imai-cho.
During the Warring States period, this residence played a role in protecting the western entrance of the town and was constructed in 1650. It is the oldest residential building in Imai-cho and has been designated as an Important Cultural Property by the government.
It's an impressive house with a large roof, isn't it?
When you enter the narrow alley, you can experience a sensation as if you have slipped back in time to the Edo period.
I hope to share the miraculous scenery of Imai-cho, where the landscape of the town from before the Edo period remains intact, with many people.
The main hall was built in the early 17th century and has been designated as an Important Cultural Property.
In the end, Imai-cho chose to disarm and surrender to Oda Nobunaga in exchange for retaining its traditional autonomy and tax exemption privileges.
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